Portugal limits itself to the production of ordinary wines for local consumption, with the exception of its light rosés and its two styles of dessert wine, Port and Maderia. With the introduction of more modern production methods, even Portugal's once-unremarkable table wines are beginning to attract attention. In the meantime, time-honored winemaking traditions continue to guide the creations of its world-famous ports and madeiras.


Port

The finest ports come from northern Portugal's Duoro Valley, and are sweet fortified wines usually served following a meal. There are four basic types of port wine: vintage, ruby, tawny, and white. Vintage ports are both the best and the most expensive, and may be aged 50 years or more. Not every year can be declared a vintage year; the vintage must meet very strict standards. Tawny ports are made from a blend of vintages, and can be aged up to 40 years but are ready to drink when bottled. Ruby ports are a medium-grade port which tends to be less expensive and more youthful in taste. If a dry, white port is desired, longer fermentation must allowed. Many other versions of these types of port are available, including single-quinta ports made when a port producer doesn't declare a vintage year.


Madeira

True madeira comes from Madeira Island, located slightly more than 500 miles southwest of Lisbon. It is a fortified wine, such as port or sherry, but is unique that it is oxidized by exposure to air and warm temperatures. There are four classic styles of madeira: light, dry Servial; sweeter and stronger Verdelho; fuller Boal; and the richest and sweetest Malmsey. Servial and Verdelho are considered aperitifs, while Boal and Malmsey are usually consumed in small quantities after a meal.